Anti-Pollution, Barrier Health, and the Next Wave of Cleansers
Horror writers often explain that the scariest monsters are the ones you cant see at all. This is doubly true in skincare, and invisible environmental aggressors can have a grave effect on your complexion. Scary stuff.
Wildfires, smoke, smog, UV rays, blue light, exhaust, and many more (mostly) invisible forces are top of mind for skincare users these days. Year after year, wildfires are ravaging air quality indexes across the nation. One expert equated a day of this exposure to the skin-equivalent of smoking several cigarettes. After a full day of sweat and pollution, instinct has us reaching for a hardcore, foamy facial cleanser to scrub our skin clean. However, the more effective way to protect your skin against environmental aggressors is to adopt a gentle double-cleanse routine and select active ingredients that combat the negative effects of oxidative stress.
Here are a few tips, tricks, and product formats to guard against pollution.
How Pollution Harms the Skin
Let's start with how environmental aggressors affect the skin. Dr. Marie Jhin, founder and head dermatologist of Premier Aesthetic Dermatology, says unlike ordinary dirt, combustion particles (like outdoor air, tobacco smoke, car exhaust, running engines, fireplaces, etc) are small enough to get into the skin. Once inside the skin, they create free radicals that cause oxidative stress, break down collagen and trigger inflammation. There volatile particles weaken the skin barrier and lead to a depleted, dull complexion. This exposure also makes you more prone to wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and worsens eczema, rosacea, and acne. Yikes.
Anti-Pollution Claims, Ingredients & Routines
While China and Korea lead a multibillion-dollar anti-pollution skincare category, US consumers are only now catching up. “Anti-pollution” products mostly use ceramides, vitamin C, niacinamide and ferulic acid. These are familiar actives, just marketed with more urgency and words like “shield” and “barrier.” Dr. Raj Fadadu, of UC San Diego, says there’s only limited evidence that topical niacinamide and vitamin C help reverse signs of environmental damage in the skin. His advice for bad-air days: wash your face, stay inside, close the windows and wear a mask. Esthetician Diana Yerkes of Rescue Spa in NYC, has noticed more congested, “gray” skin the past few summers. She recommends double cleansing with a non-stripping oil or balm, because oil lifts residue better than foaming cleansers.
What is a Double Cleanse?
After a day outside, wherever you live, your face has accumulated a mixture of oil and water-based impurities. Washing your face with a foamy cleanser only targets one of those types of congestion. Leaving behind impurities causes a buildup in pores and a further exacerbates oxidative stress. A double cleanse is the process of removing both types of impurities for the most gentle and thorough cleanse, aimed at building barrier strength. A double cleanse is exactly as it sounds; washing your face twice, aiming at a deep, thorough cleanse that doesn't compromise barrier integrity. Start with an oil-based cleanser. Oil loves oil, so this step helps to attract makeup, excess sebum, and SPF - and decongests the face. Follow up with a water-based cleanser to remove any water-based impurities like dirt and sweat.
Double Cleansing is the New Normal
This isn't a new trend by any means. Makeup wearers have held this as a standard nightly practice for years. What is new, however, is that double cleansing is starting to become standard for everyone else - especially as US consumers adopt anti-pollution skincare practices.
If you wear SPF, spend time outdoors, sweat during the day, or are exposed to fires, fumes, and other environmental aggressors - this is your sign to start a double-cleanse routine. If you're a brand, this is your moment for a double cleansing line extension, or to reposition existing products with environmental benefits. We've seen an uptick in gentle cleansers across the skincare market, including lotion cleansers, milky cleansers, and cleansing balms.
Now it's time for brands to start building specific lines that guide the consumer through a double-cleanse routine. Our prediction is that, as air quality concerns rise, intentional pairings of oil and water-based cleansers will become the new standard for a winning skincare line.
For trend forecasts, whitespace analysis, and ingredient stories - we got you. Whatever the weather, give us a call. We can't wait to work with you.
Sources
https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/what-are-combustion-products
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10341863/
https://forefrontdermatology.com/how-air-quality-impacts-your-skin/
