One of the first decisions a brand must make when deciding to develop a new skincare formula is the way they’ll go about it. There are a few options that can be explored, some faster than others, some more or less expensive than others, and some more customized than others. In this article, we’ll identify the four most pursued options we encounter as a contract manufacturer (CM) and compare them for you.
White Label at CM
White Label products are manufactured and sold to multiple brands with no formulaic differentiation, usually in the same packaging. The only difference is the labeling or branding. At Twincraft, we are often asked if White Label is an option, but this is not a service we provide.
Base Strategy at CM
Base strategy is different from White Label in that customization of a formula is allowed - required, in fact - so no two brands are selling the same formula. The CM develops a library of base formulas offered to their customers as a starting point. The brand then adds unique ingredient heroes and fragrances to differentiate their product through their storytelling. Base strategy is the fastest way from idea to market because the bases in the library have been fully vetted, tested, and scaled up, making them more predictable. A full battery of testing and piloting is still required, but time is saved during the iterative process at the beginning of the development.
Custom Formulation at CM
For brands who feel that base strategy yields products too similar to others sitting on the same shelf, most CM’s offer custom formulation services utilizing the CM’s team of Cosmetic Chemists to achieve the aesthetic, textural, and efficacy goals set forth on the customer brief. Custom formulation takes time, can be less predictable, and is sometimes not available to all customers, depending upon the CM and the circumstances. For many brands, custom formulation is the only option they’ll consider when opting to use the CM lab resources.
Tech-Transfer
Tech-transfer is the most common option we’re experiencing at Twincraft, for a variety of reasons. Some brands have Chemists on staff who formulate their own products with the full intention of Tech-Transferring that formula to their CM of choice once the formula is ready. Other brands utilize Third-Party Labs (3PL) to do their formulation work and ask the 3PL to work with the CM of choice to scale-up the formula once approved. Either way, once the formula is Tech-Transferred, the lab, the brand, and the CM work together to achieve the end-result. A thorough and proper Tech-Transfer will involve the sharing of quantitative formula breakdowns with trade names of ingredients and their suppliers. It will also include proposed Factory Making Instructions identifying the phases, mixing times and temperatures, amongst other important technical information.
Regardless of how you choose to develop your product, whether you use our lab resources through base strategy or custom formulation, or whether a Tech-Transfer is the better option for your brand, Twincraft is poised to assist in what can be a challenging process. Please reach out to our sales team to discuss which option works best for you!